New Year's Revelation

What's wrong with the internship :: I haven't been cooking enough.

Winding Down the Year

The CUESA office was sparsely occupied today, and those of us present have all been afflicted with various degrees of holiday illness. It was a quiet day, punctuated by Dexter's stream of phone conversations with vendors as they canceled their attendance at tomorrow's Market. Rain is in the forecast, and it's a holiday weekend, so the selling opportunities are doubly doomed.

This time last year, I had a huge amount of work ahead of me, laid out in three-week segments. Now, the upcoming year is a question mark. I can only hope for the opportunity to do good, challenging work; for the well-being of my family and loved ones; for even a modicum of peace, somewhere, somehow.

And I hope the same for you.
Cheers.

Still in Holiday Mode...

Another day of no work: maybe a movie; certainly some time to read more of the stack of food-related books that Santa brought me. Right now I'm in the midst of Secret Ingredients: The New Yorker Book of Food and Drink. It's a collection of food-related articles and fiction which have appeared in the magazine over the years. It's so uniformly well written that even though I'm sure I'm not really interested after skimming the first paragraph, by the third one I'm totally hooked. Right now, I'm reading about Euell Gibbons, that prototypical Man of the Earth.

I heard from both Silvia and Andy in the last couple of days. Silvia sent a Christmas card from La Jolla, said she's been working 60 to 70 hours per week ("but that's the business, isn't it?"), and added, "You'd love this place." Andy called to see if I had any info about our graduation date (I don't), because his mom wants to make reservations. He's been offered a permanent position at the high-end restaurant he's at in Minneapolis. I asked him why he wasn't working, and he said he's been on the lunch shift, which is 8 to 4, and he was on his way to Williams-Sonoma to spend his gift card present. He thought he might be in the market for some smoked sea salt.

I went with my family to see the Warriors play the Timberwolves last night, and, while watching the pre-game activities from high in the stands, I felt anxious to get back to work. I miss the teamwork, the camaraderie, the sense of anticipation and then accomplishment. I don't know what I'm looking for, exactly, but I hope I find it soon.

Last Sunday, I undertook a major holiday kitchen project, and made a Bûche de Noël. The cake was a plain genoise, and I iced it with chocolate buttercream. I might have said this before, but making buttercream is a really great kitchen adventure, requiring precision in volume, temperature, and timing, and not a little amount of faith.

I riffed on the filling, taking a page from a Sicilian cassata. I combined sheep's milk ricotta and mascarpone, then added chopped dried cherries that were plumped in orange liqueur, chopped bittersweet chocolate, pistachios, and diced orange peel. The mushrooms were marzipan. I felt compelled to call everyone in the house into the kitchen to properly admire the finished product. And, man, it was delicious.

Scheduling the New Year

With the exception of two weeks, we now have guest chefs scheduled for the entire first half of 2008. RIght now, though, with four sleeps left until Christmas, it seems more appropriate to slow down and savor the waning minutes of 2007. I've done the bulk of my Christmas baking (white chocolate/cranberry and chocolate/pine nut biscotti; ginger spice cookies; creme fraiche coffeecakes) and (hopefully) all of the shopping, so the next few days can be spent wrapping, cooking, visiting, eating, and drinking. If I'm lucky, I'll squeeze in a viewing of "Love Actually."

I won't be ferrying back to CUESA until next Friday. Enjoy the holiday with those you love. That's my plan.

More of the same, plus cheese

Dinner, just so you know, was oysters on the half shell (extra small Hog Islands and kumamotos); cheese souffle (using roccolo, an Italian cow's milk cheese that was new to me) with a chanterelle mushroom sauce, and a salad with arugula, Asian pears, and pecans. For dessert, we had tarts from Miette: one lemon, one banana cream. The birthday boy claimed it was "better than going out." The liquor was definitely cheaper.

I've got several projects working now at CUESA, but the mood is so holidayish that it's hard to concentrate on anything other than menu planning and grocery list writing. I made my second trip to Cowgirl Creamery in as many days, and came home with mascarpone, camembert, and another triple-cream called Fougerus, all of which I'm going to use in a cheese spread called
obatzda that I had a couple of years ago in Munich. It's perfect on rye crackers and seems like just the thing to have around the house for Christmas Eve and other more spontaneous eating opportunities. I picked up some gruyere to use in paninis with roasted pork and fig jam, and some mozzarella di bufala. I asked the saleswoman if the mozzarella was "too good" for pizza, and she looked at me like I was daft. "It's a match made in heaven!"

Holidays, in full swing

You know 'tis the season when your supervisor suggests conducting your (mandatory) midterm externship review in the wine bar.

About New York, we swooped in and out without any delays, weather-caused or otherwise, and let me just say this: "Warm Pecorino Fondue with Acacia Honey, Hazelnuts and Pepperoncini" (craftbar); Bobolink cave-aged cheddar, purchased at the Union Square Greenmarket; "Steamed Buns - pork belly, hoisin, cucumber, scallions" (Momofuku), and the "pre-dessert" (tapioca, cilantro syrup, coconut cookie, passion fruit sorbet) at Gramercy Tavern.

Today's Ferry Building market was under cover of the eaves and therefore practically hidden, due to the rain, but San Franciscans were out in force, shopping. I picked up some leeks, apples, arugula, potatoes, smoked salmon, and Asian pears, and did quite a bit of food shopping inside the building as well, preparing for the season's festivities. We've got a big b'day dinner at our house tonight, and I had a great time "foraging" for ingredients that will hopefully keep the birthday boy in good spirits.

Today's work (in addition to the lengthy evaluation as mentioned above) included more chef scheduling and a review of the Ten Speed Press new cookbook releases guide. Sarah asked me to page through it and make a "wish list" of chefs who'd be good guests in the CUESA kitchen. Talk about a kid in a candy store...

A Little Nip in the Air

The chilly breeze whipped right through my thin jeans as I stood waiting for the ferry this morning, and reminded me that in NYC, I can expect chillier. Tights might be in order, and gloves for sure.

We had planned to begin the root dicing project today. I even packed my own OXO peeler, because success is predicated on using the proper tools, you know. As it happened, the CUESA kitchen was being rented for a team-building event, so we were shut out, as it were. Poor Sarah. 120 pounds of roots that she'll have to peel without me.

My root article was expanded to include the descriptions that I put together. I'll give you an early look -- this will be included in Friday's e-letter, which CUESA distributes to 6,000 email subscribers.

A walk through the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market in December dispels any beliefs that “there are no fresh vegetables during the winter.” Vendor after vendor offers baskets brimming with ruby red beets, husky carrots and plump turnips. The bounty of spring and summer gives way to a different sort of agricultural plenty: vegetables that will stay fresh for months, and see us through many cold and rainy days and nights.

The term “root vegetable” specifically refers to edible plant roots, though it is sometimes used to include anything that grows underground (tubers, such as potatoes, and enlarged stems, such as kohlrabi and beets). Roots store energy for plants in the form of carbohydrates and vary widely in their content of starches and sugars. Very starchy roots, such as sweet potato and cassava, are dietary staples in some cultures; roots with high sugar content like beets and carrots have historically been used for sweetening.

Some shoppers resist root vegetables, perhaps associating them with time-intensive preparations such as stews. Others harbor childhood nightmares of poorly prepared root vegetables or mushy canned beets. For them, a well-seasoned root vegetable can be a revelation.

Learn more about root vegetables at Saturday's Market, where CUESA will host a root vegetable tasting in addition to our regular Market to Table programs.

Guide to Root Vegetables
BEETS (family Chenopodiaceae) – typically red and globe-shaped; also available in white, golden, and Chioggia (candy cane) varieties. Beets have the highest sugar content of any vegetable, but are low in calories. Do not peel or cut before cooking. Red beets can stain your hands and clothing.

Serving suggestions: Add wedges to salad with green beans and goat cheese; toss with herb butter; make into borscht, a hearty Eastern European soup.

PARSNIPS (family Apiaceae) – resemble ivory-colored carrots. Pleasantly sweet, with earthy herbal notes. In ancient times, parsnips were used as a sweetener. Parsnips require frost to convert some of the plant starch into sugar. They can be left in the ground until needed.

Serving suggestions: Boil with potatoes and mash together. Or toss roasted parsnips with nutmeg, ginger, cinnamon, or allspice and a little brown sugar or maple syrup.

CARROTS (family Apiaceae) – available in white, purple and gold, in addition to orange. High in beta-carotene, which is converted in the body to Vitamin A. Store carrots away from apples or pears which create ethylene gas, which can turn carrots bitter. Carrots are commonly used for both savory and sweet dishes.

Serving suggestions: Shred raw carrots and mix with olive oil, lemon juice, and rosemary to make a salad. Add carrots to beef stew, tomato sauce, vegetable soup, or stir-fries. Make carrot cake, carrot torte, or carrot pudding.

TURNIPS (family Brassicaceae) – usually white-fleshed and round, with purple-tinged skin. In Japanese and Arab cuisines, turnips are often pickled; in China, they are sundried and salted or preserved in soy sauce.

Serving suggestions: Dress shredded raw turnips, cabbage, and carrots with sharp mustard vinaigrette and poppy seeds to make a slaw. Make a gratin of paper-thin turnip slices, cream, and parmigiano-reggiano cheese.

RUTABAGAS (family Brassicaceae) – usually yellow-fleshed and round, larger than turnips. Rutabagas are a hybridization of cabbage and turnip. In Europe, they’re often called “swedes”.

Serving suggestions: Add diced rutabagas to chicken pot pie. Use julienned raw rutabagas on a crudités tray.

RADISHES (family Brassicaceae) – usually round but sometimes elongated; typically red skinned with white interior; peppery flavor. Watermelon radishes have green skins and red interiors. Radishes are typically eaten raw, in salads, as an appetizer, or as a garnish.

Serving suggestions: “Perhaps the most satisfactory way to eat them is to hold what is left of the green stalk between one’s fingers, rub the radish over a piece of butter, dip it in salt, and eat it with bread and butter.” (Davidson)

SWEET POTATOES (family Convolvulaceae) – not related to potatoes or to yams, which grow – mainly in Africa and Asia -- deep underground (as much as 6 feet) and therefore not eaten much except in famines. Cultivated in the Americas for over 2000 years. Rare in Europe (require hot-house cultivation in cool climates). Two main varieties: orange-fleshed and squash-like (like Garnets) and pale fleshed and fluffy when cooked (like Jersey Yellows).

Serving suggestions: Cut into sticks and fry like French fries. Mash and combine with crème fraiche and minced chipotles with adobo sauce.

CELERY ROOT (or celeriac) (family Apiaceae) – softball sized root with thick wrinkly brown skin. A special variety of celery where the root is cultivated, rather than the leaf stems. Flavor is like a cross between parsley and mild celery. Keep pieces in acidulated water after peeling so that they don’t brown.

Serving suggestions: Classic French preparation, raw with rémoulade sauce (mayonnaise, capers, gherkins, anchovies, mustard); mashed or puréed with potatoes; added to beef stew.

SUNCHOKES (or JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES) (family Asteraceae) – wrinkly small brown root, looks similar to ginger. Related to sunflowers, but not to artichokes; native to Canada. Avoid cooking in aluminum or iron pans, which will cause sunchokes to turn an unappealing grey color.

Serving suggestions: Grate sunchokes and make savory pancakes by combining with eggs, flour, and shredded onion. Deep-fry thin slices to make nutty sunchoke chips.

JICAMA (family Fabaceae) – large hard globe-shaped root with thin brown skin. Retains water chestnut-like texture even when briefly cooked. The rest of the plant is very poisonous.

Serving suggestions: Cut into squares and add to fruit salad. Serve sticks of jicama with a squeeze of lime juice and a shake of chili powder. Stir-fry with chicken or shrimp.

DAIKON (family Brassicaceae) – long, dense cucumber-shaped roots also known as Oriental radish or mooli – often included in stir-fries, or pickled (as in Korean kimchi).

Serving suggestion: Steam daikon with shredded carrots, then dress with vinaigrette made with rice wine vinegar, sesame oil, and chopped cilantro.

SALSIFY (family Asteraceae) – white carrot-like root sometimes called “oyster plant”; tender roots break easily and are difficult to harvest. Quickly goes from tender to mushy, so cook gently.

Serving suggestions: Braise with chicken, onions, mushrooms and stock. Mash with parmagiano reggiano and form into croquettes, and pan-fry.

BURDOCK (family Asteraceae) – woody-looking root most popular in Japan (where it’s called “gobo”) and elsewhere in Pacific Rim countries, and featured in macrobiotic diets. Skin looks thick but is actually very thin.

Serving suggestions: “Kimpira,” a Japanese dish – lightly fry slices of carrot and burdock, then sprinkle with sesame seeds, soy sauce, and dashi. Stir-fry with thinly sliced beef marinated in mirin and sake.

HORSERADISH (family Brassicaceae) – long knobby root, used as a condiment. Hot spicy bite which develops when root is grated or ground. Vinegar is used to stabilize this process. Loses flavor if it’s cooked. Horseradish is one of the “bitter herbs” used in the Jewish Seder supper.

Serving suggestions: Add grated horseradish, salt, and lemon juice or vinegar to sour cream and serve with cold roast beef or asparagus. Make homemade cocktail sauce with ketchup or chili sauce and grated horseradish.

GINGER (family Zingiberaceae) -- not a root but a rhizome (horizontal subterranean stem) Knobby with smooth, shiny skin. Intensely fragrant and spicy. Widely used in both sweet (mostly Western) and savory (mostly Asian) foods.

Serving suggestions: Chop or grate ginger with garlic as a base for Asian stir-fries or Indian or Southeast Asian curries. Add minced ginger to steak marinades with soy sauce, molasses, toasted sesame oil, chopped ginger, dry mustard, hot red pepper flakes, and scallions.

I'm working on a new project for Sarah that involves collecting contact information from culinary programs throughout the country. You'd think that I'd be sick of culinary school by now, but reading program information just made me feel nostalgic and wanting more. Except for the hat thing.

Mostly Snacks

I didn't load up too heavily on the fresh produce today, because I'll be out of town for a few days and there's no need for it to sit in the fridge. I did pick up some beautiful Cara Cara oranges, intensely flavored navels with flesh bordering on the blood orange color. Everyone's waiting anxiously for blood oranges to make their first appearance this season -- it may be Saturday. This cold weather we've been having is good for the oranges.

I got some Pink Lady apples, and the vendor told us it'd be his last week at the market. He's just about out of fruit, and it's time for some repair and maintenance around the farm. "It's our quiet time," he said. "We look forward to it." I picked up some mixed raisins, because they were so fat and beautiful, and I'm sure I'll have need for them during the next couple weeks of holiday baking. And I picked up some trail mix: you know you have to buy food on most cross-country flights these days, so I'm planning to pack a lunch.

I wrote up a recipe for this week's e-letter: root-based, of course, since it's Root Festival weekend. I referred to a bunch of cookbooks and created a side dish of grated rutabagas, pancetta, and peas. David had two helpings, so I guess it's good enough for publication.

My next big project is to compile a kitchen volunteer handbook, combining and organizing several existing documents and adding some new material. Plus, every week we add chefs to the schedule of 2008 demonstrations. The peak growing season is winding down, but there's always repair and maintenance!

Roots and then some

Our guest chef today brought all his own ingredients and equipment, so there was not much need for kitchen prep. Instead, Jason (a 12-year-old volunteer) and I took the rolling cart on an adventure to procure the roots for next week's festival. CUESA will be hosting a "root tasting," with roasted root kabobs. We picked up Tokyo turnips, red and golden beets, rutabagas, orange and yellow carrots, and black and watermelon radishes. About 20 pounds of each! Then I chopped the greens off the beets and the turnips, and bagged them separately. I could have taken some of the greens home to experiment with, except by the time I left the market, my bags were filled to overflowing.

Before our chef, we had a "Meet the Artisan" talk with June Taylor, a soft-spoken British lady who makes wonderful preserves (she refers to herself as a "jam wifey"). She described her work as "wholesome and soul-satisfying," and what more could you want from your daily activities? She was followed by Leland Jung, the proprietor and chef of Alive! Restaurant, which is raw and vegan. He made a delicious raw apple pie with a crust of ground coconut, almonds, and dates, filling it with sliced raw apples tossed in a "dressing" made of dates, apples and cinnamon. Then he assembled a "lasagna" -- resembling "real" lasagna only because it was built in layers. His consisted of "marinara" sauce made of blended sun dried tomatoes, "noodles" of thinly sliced marinated zucchini, and a filling of nuts and tahini. The whole casserole was covered with chopped marinated kale. It was fresh-tasting and surprisingly flavorful.

In between the roots and the jam and the sweeping, I had plenty of time to shop for myself. I came home with fat carrots, baby bok choy, italian sausage, bacon, goat cheese, bread, eggs, olive oil, clementines, fresh pasta and gnocchi. Oh, and a six pound piece of pork shoulder. "Cook it low and slow." -- I can hear Chef Al now.

Closer to the War Than I Usually Sit

As I worked this morning's sudoku puzzle on board the ferry, the man in the seat behind me asked if I wouldn't mind taking a picture of him and his son. As I framed their faces in the viewfinder, I asked the boy if he had the day off school. "I took him out today," the dad replied. "I'm being redeployed to Iraq in a couple of days." We chatted on and off for the balance of the ride, appreciating the day's sunny beauty (after yesterday's rain), and I learned a little bit more about him. He's a 21-year Navy veteran, in the reserves until "this" started; his mission is land-based, not ideal for a seaman; his son is a "clam chowder connoisseur," so Fisherman's Wharf was on the day's agenda, along with a cable car ride.

It's the closest I've come to the war in Iraq. I had a hard time choking back tears when we off-loaded. "It was nice meeting you," he said. "Be safe," was all I could manage.

I wrote an article for next week's newsletter, about roots (of course). Had to make a return trip to Mastrelli's (roast beef and provolone) because Wednesday's sandwich was so delicious. And I picked up a clementine at the Frog Hollow Farm store, and ate it while waiting for the return ferry.

Tomorrow is my last "Market to Table" day -- the Saturday chef's demonstrations. The program goes on hiatus after next weekend, until the beginning of February, and I'll be done with my internship by then. I won't be at the Root Festival -- I'll be on the opposite coast for a quick visit to the Big Apple. So tomorrow is my final opportunity to "shop" the market, receipt book in hand. We're expecting cold weather, so dress accordingly.

The End of Hat Hair

Today, I worked on scheduling the chefs and vendors who've responded to our call for 2008 demonstrations. And I've got a couple of new projects, internal organization as well as product research, that should keep me well occupied through the next several weeks.

You gotta love the Ferry Building for its culinary diversity, if nothing else. Today, I had a great sandwich from Mastrelli's Delicatessen, a perfect (though small) recreation of many of the delis I've come to love -- crowded, brusque but efficient service, wonderful, tantalizing smells. I counted as the counterman sliced 17 thin slices of Genoa salami, then piled them on a rosemary roll with provolone and pepperoncini. I mean, I haven't found any bargains there yet, but I'm far from experiencing all the Marketplace has to offer. For example: a dozen oysters at the Hog Island counter...

I got a haircut today, and for the first time in over a year, Tom wasn't strategizing about how to keep it looking good under that silly hat. We wished each other "Happy Holidays" as I left, and he said, "You've had a very exciting year. You should be proud of yourself." Isn't he sweet?

Marketing in the Rain

We did our regular stroll around the market today, and more than one vendor, recognizing Sarah as a CUESA employee, encouraged her to use her influence to provide an awning, if not a sunny day. Only really hardy souls come to buy produce in the rain. It's a lot easier to dash into a warm, well-lighted grocery store.

It's got to be really challenging to awaken before dawn to load up your truck with fruits and vegetables, knowing that you'll be bringing an inordinate amount right back home at the end of the day. So of course I picked up a few things, not that my purchases will lighten the load all that much. I was making creamed spinach on Sunday, using my favorite recipe from The American Table(one of my favorite cookbooks, sadly out of print...). The recipe uses cream cheese and chives, and I was using baby swiss chard instead of spinach, but the point is that the recipe immediately above was for rutabagas. I've never purchased a rutabaga in my life, but today, I bought three, in the spirit of the upcoming Root Festival, and to help out the poor wet farmers, and because I trust in the goodness of this cookbook. I'll keep you posted. I got some new garlic as well, and some cherry tomatoes, arugula, and gypsy peppers.

Over lunch (jambalaya and mac and cheese from Mistral), Sarah and I talked about the role that the Market Chef can play in CUESA's ongoing success, and the challenge that any not-for-profit has in expanding its message beyond the already "converted." She told me it took her a while to get used to shopping exclusively at the farmer's market for her produce -- there's definitely a balance between overloading and having the right ingredients on hand. Personally, I've got quite a lot of chard to deal with. And then there's those rutabagas.

Bacon Makes It Better

First off, today was COLD at the Farmer's Market. Even our guest chef commented on it: "I'm not nervous," she told the assembled audience. "I'm shivering." I was happy to be on dish duty. The water was warm.

For family meal today (which we prepare as a way of thanking our weekly volunteers), I collected yogurt, granola, yellow and red raspberries, and strawberries from various vendors, as well as a pound of bacon from Fatted Calf. We also had a whole wheat baguette, some fresh goat cheese, and a jar of preserved nectarines from a chef-friend of Sarah's. The outstanding combination was bread topped with goat cheese and nectarines, covered with a slice of bacon. It was awesome. And seriously, there's hardly anything that can't be improved by a slice of bacon.

Go Bears!