"I'm Laboring Under the Impression That This is Post-Secondary Education"
Steve Eliot is teaching our Wine Studies I class (he also contributes to The Connoisseur's Guide to California Wine. Despite the listing in the syllabus, this class is one straight week, "a twenty-five hour university seminar," according to Steve, to be followed by two weeks of Intro to Business Management.
Steve says he's been teaching this class for 18 years and it's clear that he has the routine down. In fact, Andrea said, "He doesn't even need an audience." He's in his late 50s, probably, dressed in a jacket and tie, with gray hair curled around his shirt collar. He talked for five hours with two ten minute breaks. He didn't even look up to register faces as he read through the enrollment list. You get the impression that he'd say and do the exact things in front of a classroom of 250.
Accordingly, I have 12 pages of handwritten notes plus scribbles on the 10-page daily handout he distributed. We began with the course goals and expectations (two part final on Friday, plus 10 points for "professionalism"), then talked about wine classifications, principles of winemaking, wine service and glasses, and the basics of tasting.
Our main objective is to learn the differences between varietals. "Ordering 'red' wine is like looking at the menu and ordering 'meat.'"
Wines are named by appellation (in Europe) or by varietal (in the New World). In Europe, they've had the benefit of thousands of years of experience to decide which grape should grow where — and according to Steve, there is definitely a right place and a wrong place. It's just that winemaking in the US is still a young art — "just one long generation" — and we're in the processing of learning. Steve pointed out that 10 years ago, the Napa Valley was planted with about 30% cabernet and merlot grapes, but that number has grown to about 90% now. "It's A+ cabernet dirt. No reason to plant anything else there."
He's not shy about putting forth his opinions. He scoffed at the "cheap and ugly" phenomenon of absconding European place names and attaching them to jug wine: "A couple of guys from Modesto saying 'We got yer Chablis right here." "'California Burgundy' is like saying 'French San Francisco.' It's absurd." Mondavi, however, got high marks for the more "consciencious and ethical" practice of bottling "California Red," unpretentious and legitimate.
Steve was quick to point out that the class isn't about "buying wines on a student budget." As chefs, we'll have opportunities to taste and serve some of the world's best wines, as restaurants are the single most important vehicle for wine sales. And more importantly, we need to know how to create food to properly accompany those wines.
Andy asked why it wouldn't be possible for a winemaker to make bad wine and charge lots of money for it. "He could," Steve said. "Once."
I've always heard that terroir is important, and that it's good for vines to be in rocky soil, or otherwise stressed. Steve explained the development of the plant: the vegetative stage, where it makes leaves, and the reproductive phase, where it produces grapes. In order for the plant to full engage in the reproductive process, it needs to feel threatened (not to be overly anthropomorphic.)
We learned about the major difference between white and red wine production — stems, seeds and skins are removed before fermenting for white wines. And we learned that the winemaker is essentially a chef, except his pots are bigger.
Steve thinks the idea of the glassware wardrobe — where you have different glasses for reds and whites — is totally bogus. The glass needs to have curved-in sides, to capture the aroma. And never pour more than 1/2 a glass — otherwise, you can't smell it properly.
And room temperature means a room in London, where it's always cold. And looking for "legs" or otherwise judging the wine by its appearance: "In my life, I have never enjoyed a glass of wine by looking at it."
We tasted six California wines today: white riesling; sauvignon blanc; two chardonnays, one mass-produced and one reserve; a pinot noir, and a cabernet sauvignon. Steve wants us to develop some common tasting habits and vocabulary. "My job is to get you to climb into the glass and think." We smell for fruit, then for other aromas; we taste for fruit, then for other flavors; we judge body and finish. It was great fun. Julian was delighted to discover early on that he could discern the difference between the aroma of green apple and ripe apple. Tashana said "Shut up!" when Steve mentioned butter, or toast, or herbs. Then she smelled, and tasted, and believed.










