Cooklady Goes To School

Cooklady's diary, as she begins culinary school

Wednesday, November 07, 2007

Mortadella: completed

First, we went to the library and took our written final for Chef Al's class (no chairs in the Garde Manger kitchen), then we returned downstairs where Chef fed us warm corned beef on french rolls, cheese optional. I spent the rest of the morning processing "my" mortadella.

First, I diced a pork jowl (smoked, frozen) and blanched it; along with pistachio nuts, the jowl fat is the garnish for the mortadella. (By the way, in case I haven't mentioned this previously, the term "garnish" has a broader definition than is generally used: in addition to the decoration of a plate or platter, garnishes can be added internally, "to enhance in appearance by adding decorative touches".) Then I gathered my mise en place together and moved to the buffalo chopper. I first used the powerful machine to grind three pounds of ice, then I added the ground pork that I'd marinated yesterday, along with Chef Al's special spice blend. I processed the mixture, scraping the bowl with my big spatula, until the mixture reached 40°F -- almost 20 minutes, because the steel bowl on the chopper really retains the chill.

[Nico was mixing up the mortadella two weeks ago when the class was startled by a sudden huge rattling and grinding sound. "Your spatula, right?" Chef called from the other side of the kitchen. "It's not the first time." And of course, he had to dump it all out and begin again.]

Then I added the ground jowl fat (prepared yesterday), and waited for the mixture to reach 45°. Then I added powdered nonfat milk (which is the emulsifier), and pulverized again until the temperature finally reached 58°. Then it was time to taste. I formed a tablespoon-sized quenelle of ground meat product and poached it until the internal temperature reached 145°. Chef Al and I shared it, and we both pronounced it delicious. I scooped the mixture into a bowl and folded in the diced jowl fat and the pistachios. By this time, I must admit, I was wearing a lot of mortadella on my coat and apron. The buffalo grinder oozes and spits as it churns around and around. Derrick looked worse yesterday, though, when he processed the liver sausage.

It was stuffing time! I used a large sausage stuffer, sort of like this one, scooping the mortadella into the feed tube, and sliding the rinsed "beef middles" (cow intestines) onto the sausage tube. I ended up with seven sausages, each about 3" in diameter and 15" long. I poached them s-l-o-w-l-y, beginning in cold water, until the water temp reached 160° and the internal temp reached 145*. Then I chilled them in an ice bath, and refrigerated them until tomorrow. Then we'll face the true test: can I slice it? Is it beautiful and delicious? Right now, they're resting.

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